What is one of the causes of a “rippling or jagged” effect around an inside cutting edge in a Gypsy or Flush setting? How can this be avoided?
When an edge of a cutting tool (of any shape) glances over or hits a facet it will ride above that face. In turn, it will transfer the difference in angles to the tool and then to the gold. So how can the setter avoid these undesirable results? To keep cutting back is not the answer! What I do in these circumstances is to hold my graver securely and maintain an 1) outward and 2) forward cutting motions. This can be achieved by also putting your finger right near the cutting edge and with this will have a clean result. Do not let any part of the tool touch the facets while cutting the bezel inner frame of the diamond. If you do, you are back to “square one”. Try and avoid changing the holding pattern of your hand, let your ring clamp do the turning, keep your cutting hand rigid and don’t change your cutting angles. If you are using a Flat #39 or #40 graver, reshape the absolute cutting edge to be thin as possible nearest the diamond. This also will avoid the unnecessary touching of the facets as you are cutting along. Don’t lean too far back on the inside cutting angle.